Dining in Davis: Mermaid’s Seafood & Grill

In a town best known for raising, tending and perhaps tipping cows, diners shouldn’t expect to find a good seafood restaurant, right?

Wrong. Mermaid’s Seafood & Grill, a brand-new addition to the Oakshade Town Center in South Davis, tastily fills a niche that has been sadly lacking in Davis: reasonably-priced seafood and a full bar in a casual, friendly setting.

I stopped by Mermaid’s at 4:30 p.m. on a weekday, admittedly not the most exciting time of day for any restaurant. Case in point: My dining companion and I were the only customers in the dining room until about 5 p.m. I couldn’t help but be disappointed by Mermaid’s South Davis location. Its distance from downtown is not convenient for the young diners and bar-hoppers it seems they are hoping to attract.

The décor charmingly kept up the “mermaid” theme with dark blue walls and colorful mermaid decorations. The waitresses were friendly and the service was extremely fast, though that may be because there were so few customers.

After studying the extensive menu, I figured that any seafood restaurant had better be able to make good clam chowder soup, so I ordered a cup for $3.99. It was flavorful without being overly fishy, and had a good ratio of clam pieces and potatoes. Oyster crackers provided a salty crunch to the dish. A bowl ($5.99) could easily be a delicious meal in itself for anyone with a light appetite.

Almost too quickly after bringing out the soup, the waitress brought out the entrees. I had ordered the three piece catfish for $9.99. The lightly breaded catfish was served with French fries, two hushpuppies and coleslaw.

The catfish had a soft, fluffy texture which made eating it with a fork somewhat difficult, as pieces of the fish kept flaking off. The breading was nicely seasoned and had the perfect crispness. The fish itself tasted very mild to me, though my companion remarked that she could “taste the saltwater” in it – a good thing in her opinion.

The French fries appeared unremarkable at first glance, but they turned out to be quite flavorful and had a natural, potato-y taste. They weren’t overly crispy, so those who prefer French fries to be crunchy may be disappointed.

The hushpuppies turned out to be the best part of the dish. These perfectly round balls of fried cornbread were full of flavor and really fun to munch on in between bites of the catfish and French fries. They were a unique addition to the dish that kept it from being completely ordinary.

My companion ordered the grilled Mahi-Mahi sandwich and criss-cut fries for $8.99 and was happy with the flavors and seasoning of both. The sandwich itself was nothing special – it consisted of simply the fish, lettuce, tomato and sauce on a bun. The round criss-cut fries were the standouts of this dish. Crispy, thick and flavored with more spices than just salt, these fries would make it worth ordering any of the sandwiches.

It is important to note that Mermaid’s offers not only every kind of fish, but also a selection of hamburgers and steaks. Brunch is also offered from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on weekends. So diners who are not in the mood for fish can find plenty of alternative dishes.

Mermaid’s large bar had several customers when I was there, and appears to be building a strong clientele with daily specials. Mojito/Martini Mondays offer $4 mojitos and $1 off martinis, while Ladies’ Night Thursdays offer $2 wells and drafts. Other specials discount tequila, margaritas and Bacardi rum. Mermaid’s also sometimes provides live music in its outdoor patio.

Dining at Mermaid’s was a pleasant and tasty experience, though the lack of customers made it difficult to judge its atmosphere and service. I would return simply for the fact that it offers something no other restaurant in Davis does: a large selection of seafood dishes at reasonable prices. The food is not especially new or innovative, but it is perfect for a relaxed night out with friends or family.

ERIN MIGDOL can be reached at features@theaggie.org.