‘The Gift of Fashion’ displays haute couture selections from the collection of Manetti Shrem Museum
The newly opened exhibition at the Manetti Shrem Museum features unique and treasured fashion pieces
By JONAH BERMAN – arts@theaggie.org
On Oct. 14, the Jan Shrem and Maria Manetti Shrem Museum of Art opened the exhibition “The Gift of Fashion: From the Maria Manetti Shrem Haute Couture Collection.” Formulated in collaboration with museum benefactor and namesake Maria Manetti Shrem as part of the Museum’s 10th anniversary season, the exhibition showcases a variety of meticulously designed gowns and jewelry.
Key contributors include Professor of Design Tim McNeil, along with Design Collection Curator Adele Zhang. In addition, McNeil recruited Maev Dunning, a master’s student in design.
The selections span decades of Manetti Shrem’s time as a collector; Dunning emphasized the active role Manetti Shrem played in the development of the exhibition.
“She picked out each of the gowns and pieces of jewelry that are included,” Dunning said. “A really important part of developing this exhibition was getting her perspective on them and understanding why these particular pieces are so important to her.”
Most of the gowns were handcrafted this decade by Dolce and Gabbana, with some featuring hundreds of thousands of sequins. The jewelry also originates from Dolce and Gabbana, as well as design houses including Scavia, Bulgari and Massimo Izzo. As haute couture pieces, they are one of a kind, reflecting the unique preferences and specifications of the eventual wearer; Dunning noted that Manetti Shrem worked extensively with the design house for each piece.
“When you look at these pieces, you see imagery from places that are really important to her,” Dunning said. “You see in the jewelry, there's a ring that looks just like her dog. The way that this happens is because she gets to work with these designers and collaborate very early on.”
Dunning, who lacked extensive knowledge of the gownmaking process upon entering the project, grew appreciative of the craftsmanship necessary to produce the gowns.
“I think that's one way that these objects overlap with art, even though they're gowns and pieces of jewelry,” Dunning said. “They're all so unique and one of a kind, and very intricately created, which kind of makes them art in and of themselves.”
Furthermore, not only does the show include many of Manetti Shrem’s haute couture gowns, but also features an earlier piece that represents the development of Manetti Shrem’s fashion collection. The exhibition opens with an evening dress featuring various colored silks from the 1980s, designed by Roberto Capucci.
“The first one in the exhibition, the one that you see when you walk in, is actually the only piece in the exhibition that is not one-of-a-kind because it was her first designer gown,” Dunning said. “And so, even though it's not technically haute couture, we decided to include it because it is such an important piece of her story.”
Throughout the process, Dunning noted that the design team took extensive care to ensure that visitors would get the most thorough and complete viewing experience possible for the gowns. In addition to mirrors that help viewers see minute details on the back of the gowns, specific lighting choices were also carefully selected.
“We also thought about lighting a lot, especially considering this space has really big windows and a lot of natural light,” Dunning said. “We wanted to kind of have more of a dramatic high-lit effect on the gowns to really be able to see the details. So we ended up covering the windows with really beautiful green drapes that match colors from the gowns themselves.”
Overall, the curation process has further developed Dunning’s appreciation for and interest in fashion as an art form.
“If I could go back and do my undergrad over again, I would definitely take more of the fashion design classes,” Dunning said.
Madison Liang, an alum of UC Davis’ design program, was also recruited by McNeil. Liang’s contributions to the design process of the show included creating 3D renderings of the space. She also collaborated with Dunning to design a patterned band that runs along the wall through the exhibition.
“I want the visitors to really appreciate all the garments and jewelry and hopefully the work that the museum team and the design team did,” Liang said. “Hopefully, we’re able to highlight her pieces in a way that do it justice, you know?”
In addition, the exhibition includes a film featuring interviews that discuss Manetti Shrem’s career and background in fashion, including the history of her fashion distribution company Manetti-Farrow. The film provides insightful context into Manetti Shrem’s life and passion for the craft of fashion, according to Manetti Shrem Museum employee and fourth-year art history major Priscilla Douglas.
“I really like the video,” Douglas said. “When you see it and learn about her backstory, it really humanizes her in an important way.”
Ultimately, the exhibition serves as a brilliant look into the effort and creativity necessary to create haute couture, while also illustrating Manetti Shrem’s specific heritage and connection to fashion. Many pieces contain depictions of piazzas or harken back to architectural styles reflecting Manetti Shrem’s Italian heritage.
“It's just so clear that these all belong to the same person and that they're all kind of cohesive and a part of her unique collection,” Dunning said. “These pieces are all very Maria Manetti Shrem, and even though each object is very different from the next, together they really tell a story.”
“The Gift of Fashion” will remain on display until Jan. 30, 2027 at the Manetti Shrem Museum.
Written by: Jonah Berman — arts@theaggie.org