Unfolding the origins of the literary subgenre and aesthetic

By CORALIE LOON — arts@theaggie.org

With spring just around the corner, lovers of the darkest and coldest time of the year are savoring the last moments of winter. One way to make use of the last few weeks of the rainy season is to stay inside, curl up with a warm drink and get lost in a good book.

Dark Academia, a literary subgenre and aesthetic that has gained considerable popularity in the last decade, may be perfect for lovers of mystery, historical fiction, academic settings and sometimes even fantasy. According to L’Officiel, while the term Dark Academia “first appeared on the blogging platform Tumblr around 2015,” the genre is widely accepted to have been sparked by Donna Tartt’s 1992 novel, “The Secret History.”

Book Riot defines Dark Academia as “a book which features an academic setting, like a college or boarding school, and usually features some kind of a dark twist.” L’Officiel cites common elements of Dark Academia as classical literature, European art, gothic architecture and the appearance of “puzzles, murder, danger, cults and secret clubs.” This element of darkness, which distinguishes it from “light” and much more romanticized academia, often serves as a commentary on the “darkness” of elitist culture.

For those who grew up reading “Harry Potter,” Dark Academia has a certain appeal as the grown-up version of the magical, anachronistic high-school drama. If any of these elements sound intriguing, here are some of the best Dark Academia books to read this year:

“The Secret History” by Donna Tartt (1992)

It’s hard to find any list of Dark Academia books without “The Secret History” on it. This modern classic is an immersive, slow and simmering story of murder within a group of college students. The story is narrated by Richard Papen, who, after beginning to attend college in New England, attempts to join an exclusive ancient Greek program that is as small and intriguing as it is elusive. Naturally, things don’t go as planned. What makes this book interesting is not the murder itself, but the coy way the narrative structure frames the murder and slowly uncovers all that happens leading up to and following the pivotal moment.

There’s a reason this book is often called the original Dark Academia novel: its atmospheric and immersive tone, the presence of a mysterious “society” and its literature-loving and elitist cast of characters all cumulate into this memorable plunge into corruption and moral ambiguity.

“Vita Nostra” by Maryna and Serhiy Dyachenko (2007)

Originally written in Russian and translated by Julia Meitov Hersey, this novel combines references to Dark Academia with heavy doses of fantasy and existential dread. “Vita Nostra” follows a young woman, Sasha, who encounters a mysterious man while vacationing by the beach. Sasha is manipulated into following the stranger’s requests, which are increasingly bizarre and revealed to be part of an initiation into a school she’s never heard of: The Institute of Special Technologies. The story follows her journey through an education that seems to baffle as much as it teaches.

“Vita Nostra” is not for the casual reader: it is dark, ambiguous and detached from the physical world. A Goodreads user by the name of “Rincey” compared the book to “Harry Potter,” if it was written by Kafka. A better definition would be hard to come by.

“If We Were Villains” by M.L. Rio (2017)

Another classic on the Dark Academia bookshelf, “If We Were Villains” is the most similar to “The Secret History” out of the books on this list. It follows Oliver, a man who was imprisoned for supposedly murdering a fellow classmate in his college days, as he explains the truth of the event to a detective. Similar to “The Secret History,” “If We Were Villains” follows a group of friends brought together by a similar interest: in this case, Shakespeare. As the story progresses, interpersonal relationships grow and tensions bubble, slowly blurring the lines between theatrics and reality.

“If We Were Villains” is captivating, dramatic and hard to put down, making it a more favorable read for those who found “The Secret History” to be too meandering. Despite its commitment to almost all the tropes of Dark Academia literature, it reads as a fresh and memorable take on a Shakespearean tragedy.

“Maurice” by E.M. Forster (1971)

Not published until a year after the author’s death, “Maurice” is not usually viewed as a member of the Dark Academia subgenre. However, its setting at a university, focus on interpersonal relationships and involvement with literature, art and Greek culture make it a prototype of the genre’s eventual development. “Maurice” follows the life of a young man growing up and grappling with his sexual identity. While studying at Cambridge University, he begins to fall in love with his classmate, Clive, and develops a relationship that is strained by both parties’ inability to commit to something they find morally unjustifiable.

“Maurice” lacks the elements that make it clearly “dark” — no murder occurs and nothing supernatural pokes through the surface. But it is also not clearly “light” academia — it critiques elitist culture and the heteronormative world it produces rather than romanticizing them. At the heart of “Maurice” is the theme that appears again and again in Dark Academia: characters who are rejected by the outside world and must create their own version of social reality.

Written by: Coralie Loon — arts@theaggie.org

One of the company’s founders, Jensen Neff, discusses how clothing can be ethically sourced and playfully vibrant 

By ANA BACH — arts@theaggie.org

Oddli is a sustainably sourced clothing brand co-created by Jensen Neff and Ellie Chen. The two decided to pursue this business venture while in their senior years at Stanford University after finding out just how much fabric goes to waste in the fashion industry.

“The initial idea for Oddli came after we were invited down together to shoot at Patagonia’s creative headquarters in Ventura,” Neff, who is the Creative Head of the brand, said. “After seeing the way that their business functioned, [while] simultaneously being at Stanford, watching girls overnight order (and me included) clothing pieces to wear for a formal the next day,” they were inspired to start their line.

Oddli’s clothing is mainly made up of leftover scrap fabric. There are roughly 14 million pounds of fabric left over every day in the clothing industry, and in creating a brand that recycles excess materials from larger fast fashion companies, Oddli creates clothing that actually contributes to the overall health of the planet. Each piece is made from a unique array of these fabrics, leaving each buyer with a special story of creation tied to their clothing.

Neff said that Stanford’s Capstone Project requirement provided the two with the necessary mentorship and encouragement they needed to move forward with their business venture.

“We started by tackling the waste issue in the industry,” Neff said. “We had gained an 8,000-person waitlist and did 50,000 [orders] in pre-order in one month. Then we said, ‘Let’s go test it for one year in Los Angeles.’ Now it has been two years and we just got our first full-time employee and office space.”

Neff said that the inspiration for the brand name came from a Shel Silverstein poem. “Falling Up” inspired the feeling that the two wanted for the brand.

“We wanted that feeling of falling up in a name,” Neff said. “I think the name couldn’t be more fitting.”

The brand releases a limited product line, which the founders say is meant to shift the culture that is charged with a constant need to endlessly produce new pieces to keep consumers interested. Oddli hopes buyers will treasure fewer pieces for a longer period of time.

Oddli’s products have been showcased on a handful of influencers’ TikTok and Instagram accounts. Neff stated that the best way to grow the brand has been through “intentional gifting.”

“I really look for people who have creative passions [and those] who have small businesses or are building platforms around something,” Neff said. “Gifting-wise, I choose what I think they would like.”

Still, in the early stages of brand building, Oddli is looking to grow an even bigger sustainable business. While other companies in the fashion industry aim to grow the product line physically by constantly producing new items, Oddli is looking to resourcefully takes what has already been put into the material world and spin it into something new.

“I believe that the world needs Oddli,” Neff said. “The vision overall is to become what will be Gen-Z’s ethical clothing brand, and what would be the replacement for Urban Outfitters or Brandy Melville. I will do anything it takes to get there and I think the way that we market is going to shift, especially in this next year.”

In addition to prioritizing sustainability, Oddli also sets itself apart by prioritizing connecting with buyers. Neff emphasized the impact that brands have on shaping our identities.

“The way that a brand could help me define myself and stand for my values was unmatched,” Neff said. “One of my favorite things that we have been hearing a ton with Oddli is that anytime someone wears it and someone else comes up to them, I think they automatically feel a connection as well as an overall kindness. I hope that Oddli stands for not taking ourselves too seriously while also feeling cool and sexy and any of those things that we want to be.”

Neff spoke about where she sees the brand going within the next year.

“The goal for this year is growth,” Neff said. “We really want it to be the year where Oddli reaches so many more eyes […] I am just in love with the world we are building. I want more people to be a part of it.”

Written by: Ana Bach — arts@theaggie.org 

From country to pop music, this selection is sure to set the tone for warmer days ahead        

By SARAH HAN — arts@theaggie.org

“Like I Loved You” by Brett Young (2017)

First on the list is a country song by well-known country singer Brett Young. The lyrics are about moving on from a relationship, but the real standout is the upbeat, catchy tune in the beginning. Whether you’re looking for a new addition to your playlist or want to check out some country songs, this is a good option to start with.

“Goodbye My Lover” by James Blunt (2004)

Although this song has been out for almost two decades, I only recently encountered it and I was immediately drawn to it. Blunt has a very distinguishable voice — it’s very subtle, yet still clear. The chorus is my favorite because it follows the type of tune that will replay in your head. This song brings out the warmness of spring, so feel free to check it out if you want to listen to an oldie but goodie.

“July” by Noah Cyrus (2019)

Compared to her sister Miley Cyrus, Noah Cyrus has similar depth in her voice, but also possesses a notably softer quality. Similar to “Like I Loved You,” this song also has a country vibe; however, it incorporates a pop feel that many people may be familiar with. The lightweight strums of the guitar match the lighthearted feel of spring, so this is definitely one of my top choices on the list.

“Tom’s Diner” by Suzanne Vega, cover by AnnenMayKantereit x Giant Rooks (2019)

Although the original by Suzanne Vega has its charm, AnnenMayKantereit and Giant Rooks put their own spin on “Tom’s Diner” by changing up the rhythm and introducing their unique voices to the track. The lead singer of Giant Rooks has a very clear voice, which contrasts well with AnnenMayKantereit’s aggressive, grungy voice. The lyrics match the mild, relaxed vibe of spring, so I definitely recommend checking out this cover or the original version.

“My Future” by Billie Eilish (2020)

This song was made in the thick of the pandemic; therefore, the official music video is all digitally produced. The digital art and the rain perfectly encapsulate the flowers and trees of spring, and the subtle yet addictive beat is sure to cause your head to bop up and down. Eilish’s voice fits seamlessly into the overall beat of the song, so whether you are a Billie Eilish fan or you want to see a digital music video, I recommend this song.

“Supermarket Flowers” by Ed Sheeran (2017)

This song captures the calmer, sweeter sides of spring. Sheeran reminisces on his late grandma in a positive way rather than a sorrowful one, which aids the overall calm vibe of the song. I think this will be a good song to listen to when biking to class, sitting at a cafe or studying for a test.

“Love Come Around” by Elina Stridh (2021)

Following the calmness of Ed Sheeran’s “Supermarket Flowers,” Swedish singer Elina sings very meaningful yet relaxing lyrics about the hardships and triumphs of life. Elina’s music videos involve a lot of scenery and still objects, which we will see frequently in the upcoming season.

“Hurricane” by Bridgit Mendler (2012)

Whenever spring rolls around, I always feel nostalgic — and what better way to embrace that nostalgia than listening to “Hurricane” by Bridget Mendler? This song is a classic tune that will help you reflect on your childhood. Additionally, the word “hurricane” seems fit for the frequent rains that will occur in the spring.

Written by: Sarah Han — arts@theaggie.org

The Arts Desk’s weekly picks for music, movies and more 

By CLARA FISCHER — arts@theaggie.org

Podcast: “Anything Goes” by Emma Chamberlain (2020)

If you’re on the younger side, you’ve likely heard of viral sensation Emma Chamberlain. Gaining notoriety through her ability to stay relatable even after immense success, Chamberlain’s podcast builds on this brand identity. Though her affluent lifestyle can make her perspective out of touch at times, hearing Chamberlain talk through her thoughts out loud is mentally stimulating, and gives the listener the feeling as though they’re participating in an engaging discussion with a loved one. The unique format of this podcast — no guests — relies purely on Chamberlain’s ability to engage listeners with just her rambles, and the rampant success of “Anything Goes” proves that she is more than capable of this.   

Song: “Jesus in Berlin” by Nullzwei (2022)

Coming from Rotterdam-based newcomers to the house music scene, Nullzwei’s “Jesus in Berlin” is a catchy, tongue-in-cheek single that beautifully combines techno beats and wit. This song has been my and my friends’ getting-ready anthem of choice; every time this song comes on, someone inevitably turns the speaker up. I recommend giving this track a listen, whether you’re a die-hard house music fan or only a casual listener — you may be surprised by how much you like it. 

Movie: “Forrest Gump” dir. by Robert Zemeckis (1994)

This 90’s cult classic recently came out on Netflix, so naturally, I immediately dropped all of my other work to rewatch it. “Forrest Gump” is a heartwarming story about love, acceptance, identity and the relationships that make us who we are. Having won six Oscars, this film isn’t exactly underrated; however, its maintained cultural relevance and strong performances from the cast justify its success. If you want a feel-good movie that’ll make you experience a wide range of emotions, I recommend “Forrest Gump.” 

TV Show: “Outer Banks” (2020)

While I have been known to be a bit of an entertainment snob, in my humble opinion, “Outer Banks” is one of the best shows Netflix has put out in recent years. With the recent release of season three, now is a great time to distract yourself from the stress of finals by watching a group of teenagers on a wild goose chase for a golden cross. The extended drama, though repetitive at times, is action-packed enough to keep me hooked, but not too serious to the point that I stress myself out by watching it. The cast has engaging chemistry, the dialogue is surprisingly witty and the soundtrack transports viewers to a sunny place far away from the Davis rain. 

Written by: Clara Fischer — arts@theaggie.org